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First of all, I always add 3 tablespoons of bentonite per 5 pounds of dry glaze mix, and this keeps the glaze in suspension rather well. I fire to 2140 in oxidation with a 15 min. hold at peak temp, and control cool down at 150 degree drop/hr to 1450 degrees. I also fire my greenware to ^04 and this helps with pinholing and other irritating issues.
Castille Blue over Royal Blue (mixed on the thinner side) is out of this world! I use this combo on a variety of ^5 clay bodies, from white to chocolate brown. This combo can be runny so dip the Castille only on the upper 2/3 to 3/4 portion of the outside.
MS4 Forest Green over Cerulean on a brown clay is absolutely wonderful but extremely runny. Using all the firing procedures above, only dip the Forest Green 2/3 to 3/4 on the outside and make sure you wipe any thicker areas or you may have a kiln shelf attached to your piece. If you use textures such as leaves on your ware, this combo will just blow you away!
Oasis Blue I had problems with pinholing which were alleviated when I fired to ^04 for my bisque firings and then wiped the bisque well with a clean damp sponge. This is a very stable glaze for me with absolutely no running. Texture shows up very well with this glaze. You can also dip just the rim in a layer of MS4 Forest Green or Castille Blue over Oasis Blue for a beautiful effect.
Try Castille Blue over Amethyst Matt on a white clay body very pretty.
A Laguna Mystic Glaze combo that is truly outstanding is Atlantis Aqua over Antique Jade on any color clay body. This is extremely runny, so only dip the inside and rim in the Atlantis Aqua. It comes out looking like the waters in the Caribbean, and if your pots are textured, even better!
Fired these two glazes yesterday to about cone 5 1/2 on a pinkish pugged clay (all sorts of Laguna clays.) the cappuccino came out really quite lovely- after reading other's comments I was hesitant to apply it too thickly, but it appears that the pieces I did apply it thicker on turned out beautifully with no running or touching down at all. I was a little disappointed because it came out much darker than the sample picture indicated, but the result is still gorgeous. I'll definitely be ordering more Cappuccino. The Chive glaze is... well, a pretty boring color, almost matt, and sort of... Army surplus-esque. It crawled a little in places it was thick and didn't hang on to edges as well as most glazes do. The Cappuccino over the Chive caused sort of an alligator textured look, but really isn't visually appealing. Chive on top of Cappuccino is very dark brown with small flecks of blue. interesting, but not desirable. Love the Cappuccino.
I love this glaze. It has a beautiful blue color with specks of deeper blue. Three coats give my wares a solid, glossy coat with depth and interest. Fire to cone 5, oxidation, electric kiln. Also, I have had no problems with running - unlike some of the other glazes in this line, esp. Cappuccino. That one is a nightmare.
I love this glaze. I read the other postings about how it is ugly, etc., and had this same experience on my first test of it. However, someone told me to apply it thinly, and this works wonderfully--maroon/brown with yellow flecks. I love this glaze, and it has turned out to be one of my favorites. I also fire a bit hotter, and slowly cool my kiln. Love it.
I have used chun red glaze over redwood matt, and it is wonderful. I brush on two regular coats of redwood matt, then a layer of chun. It's very interesting. On one bowl, I had reds, oranges, yellow, and green. Most of the pieces glazed with this combo have sold well for me.
I fired 2 loads of Iron Phoenix to Cone 5 in an electric kiln. The first firing was beautiful--and looked much like the sample tile. The second firing, however, looked like a completely different glaze. It turned out to be a gun metal blue, whereas the first firing was brown earth tones with little bits of blue mixed in. Any idea what I did wrong, or is this the nature of the glaze?
Note: The following comments were posted on the ClayArt user group. Remember, they are opinions. You will notice that different people got different results, some very good, some not so good. Remember to test all glazes before you use them in large quantities or on important pieces! We are contacting Laguna to verify whether some glazes should be fired to a lower temperature than listed, and will note it appropriately on our page.
12/99 Several potters on ClayArt posted that Peacock Blue glaze ran. One person answered that they have layered the Laguna peacock, "...Using gunmetal on the bottom, as it doesn't 'run' like the peacock. The neat thing is that the peacock does run, and right into the gunmetal, giving a great result. " It was suggested by others that this glaze be fired at a lower temperature,
One member did, and these were his results: Put some peacock blue glaze on the inside of some already bisqued porcelain pots and in a bisque load (Cone 04) (and antique blue on the outside at 04). Result? Worked great!!! Obviously the Peacock blue glaze (and the MS-4 forest green glaze too) will run if too high a cone. temp in the kiln. I believe these glazes are set a much lower cone. I did finally test tile all the laguna glazes I bought. These are my test results using ^5 Laguna B-Mix Clay. MS-3 wheat - (GOOD) / MS - 4 - Forest Green - transparent - runny - fire at much lower temperature for good results / -MS-9-Sandy matte opaque - Good / MS-13 Lemon yellow-matte opaque - Good / MS-20 - Royal Blue - opaque - Good- but slightly runny - careful / MS-27 - Peacock Blue - transparent - Very runny - fire at much lower temperature for good results / MS- 29 - Clear Bright - Good / MS-32 Chun Red - Fair - some reds - need to experiment more/ MS-35 - Sage - matte - opaque - Good / MS - 37 Turkish Amber - Good- but slightly runny- careful / MS-42 - Speckled Moss - matte - opaque - OK but not quite as shown in the catalog / MS- 43 - Amethyst - matte - opaque - OK but not quite as shown in the catalog / MS- 50 - Dutch Sprinkle - matte - opaque - Good / MS - 55 - Antique blue - Good - but needs (if spraying) several coats / MS - 57 - Cappuccino - Good- but slightly runny - careful / MS - 60 Walnut Spice - matte - opaque - Good / MS - 63 - Colonial White - opaque - Good / MS - 64 - Sunflower - opaque - Good / MS-75 Chive - Good / MS - 77 Jade - opaque - Good / MS - Forest Green - Good / MS - 79 - Alfred Blue - good, needs to reach full temperature / MS - 83 - Maroon - Good - but needs (if spraying) several coats / MS - 84 - Sunflower - opaque - good / MS - 90 - Blackberry Wine - Good - but needs (if spraying) several coats / MS - 94 High Gloss black - Good /
12/99 I've had good results with cone 5-6 glazes made by Laguna, especially the Moroccan Sand, Oasis Blue, and fair results with Emerald Green. Their yellow glazes leave much to be desired, however.
12/99 Some months ago I fired the Laguna Chun red in reduction and got a beautiful solid red. I too had problems in oxidation and had intended to add some silicon carbide to bring out the red but never got around to it. Might be worth a try.
12/99 I too have tried the Chun Red. The only times it worked was when it was applied VERY thick. Then it was great. But it only works when it feels like it. There is no duplicating it. And you can't reapply and refire. It burns out completely and turns a really puke pale green.
12/99 I, too, use B-Mix 5 but have had wonderful results with the chun glaze- ---AFTER one bad attempt. It was on too thick and ran and was ugly. I moistened the pot the next time to prevent the extra thickness and it is lovely. It seems to do very well on textured or carved surfaces by breaking white. Once in a while I get some green in there and sometimes blue. I have fired it in oxidation only.
12/99 I've used Laguna Antique Blue and Sunflower glazes. Both pretty reliable when you eliminate the problems caused by my less than adept dipping.
12/99 I have used several of the Laguna Glazes -Oasis Blue is nice in the pre-mixed pints, fires well all the way to cone 8, but the dry mix doesn't suspend well - if I have to add stuff to it, I'll just make my own to start with. Yellow Ochre is absolutely the ugliest shade of dog puke yellow you've ever seen, although it is, of course, the most consistent of their glazes I've tried.
Bamboo Ash Matte is also so ugly and bland and bumpy it makes you nauseous to look at it. It also has a tendency to blister and pinhole. And it's really, really ugly. Oh - and forget re-glazing over it - it rejects the new glaze onto your kiln shelves.
Note: this person also found AMACO glazes (another brand) to be very runny so glaze may have been to thick or firing temperature too high..
12/99 I have used several of the Laguna Moroccan Sand glazes and find them extremely reliable at cone 5 to 6. They're not all that exciting but they brush on well and are great on a variety of clay bodies. The Walnut Spice has sold pretty well for and has been very consistent not pinholing or weird stuff happening. I am probably going to try others because I have mixed glazes for firing at electric 5 and find them more problematic. Anyway, that's my two cents.
12/99 If you are using Laguna Moroccan Sand Peacock-T your problem may be temperature sensitivity. I used Forest Green-T only on a test tile first. It ran badly. I called Laguna and was told that their T or transparent glazes are supposed to be fired to cone 4, no higher. They have an 800 phone number and are helpful. Remember to test each glaze batch before using it on a whole kiln load. Time consuming to test but it saves much heartbreak. I've used lots of Laguna glazes in a teaching situation and they work for us. Some (maybe all) do need bentonite added to keep suspended.
12/99 You are right about the peacock; we had to replace kiln shelves after using on the outsides of our pots too. It does look pretty nice on the inside though, like looking into a clear pool of water. We don't use on the outsides anymore.
12/99 Of the 21 glazes I've tried these are the ones giving me the most trouble. Grape, Royal Blue, Castile Blue, Rafia, Cerulean, Hyacinth and Dutch Blue. They are impossible to apply evenly regardless of whether I dip, pour or brush.
12/99 I've been using several Laguna glazes -^5-6 in my clay classes and the Chun red is a nightmare! Never ever even close to the sample shown and this is going on 4 years with many opportunities to show its true colors! We're putting it on Laguna B mix ^5-6
12/99 Try Double firing your Chun Red. That is right. Fire it twice! It works for me.
12/99 Laguna Peacock I had terrible running and blistering when I fired to ^5. One fateful day as I was making a visit to my supplier, he happened to mention he had pulled all the Peacock from his shelves explaining all the similar complaints with it. He had a call in to Laguna at that time...don't know if he ever heard back from them. He told me the Peacock was in the Laguna line of ^1 to ^5 glazes and he personally believed it had been mislabeled to ^5. I haven't attempted to fire it to ^1 yet. That could be worth a try.
Chun Red I've used this a lot, both by itself and layered with other Laguna glazes. It seems to be temperature *controllable* for me. Cooler is better, you might try ^4. I have also gotten the green/blue pools with this glaze as well as nice khaki breaking. Contrary to another ClayArter's experience, I have refired it and gotten "redder" results.
12/99 There's a lot of good to be had from commercial glazes, especially for beginning potters and those who either don't care to formulate their own glazes or struggle with glaze formulation. The Laguna line for mid-fire glazes is fairly extensive. I've experienced a lot of heartbreak using them as well as a lot of treasures from the kiln! Just because they are pre-mixed and packaged doesn't take away the need for testing.
12/99 Peacock Blue and Hyacinth......I was disappointed with both, However.. love to use them OVER other glazes....the hyacinth in particular can create almost an iridescence. The WHEAT is wonderful.